Wednesday, January 16, 2013


Do you pomelo?

Those pink segments do not come from an ordinary ruby grapefruit. They come from a yellow-skinned soccer ball whose pith is about three quarters of an inch thick.

You get rid of all the pith and then you skin the membranes from the fruit, and then you separate the pieces. Each pink teardropped cell is taut and fat, and strangely dry on the outside. Inside they are sweet, with no grapefruit bitterness (which I don't mind, actually - the bitterness, I mean).

(Oh, and nevermind the leeks - they were for a green vichyssoise...)

I am on a watercress kick and last night's salad was those segments, fresh watercress and slow-cooked shallots. Which are a revelation - cook them for as long and as slowly as you can stand, and they turn brown and deliciously crisp. Add a little salt and sprinkle. The dressing can go either way, depending on the rest of dinner - SE Asia, with lime for sourness and fish sauce for salt; or sherry vinegar and olive oil.

Either way, pretty wonderful.

Have I mentioned that watercress is almost beyond super-food?

And the daffodils??? Another story. January is a revelation.
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