Wednesday, November 25, 2009

White Food

...is what you make the night before Thanksgiving.

I will make ajo blanco, and Vince will make flan, and we will roast chestnuts.

Then we will get into our new, white, very high thread count sheets from the Macy's sale, to replace the very low thread count sheets I bought by accident, and then...

...we will go to sleep.

Giving thanks

Thanksgiving menu, Thursday evening, with Dan, Nancy and Ariana, at Savoy, run by the the original locavore chef. Before the bandwagon. Honey from New York City rooftop bees.

Hm Hm Hm

I am torn between the bisque, the pâté and the salad, though...Fortunately they leave you no choice with the scallops. And then? I never eat turkey, so this is the day to eat it, ain't it? But the venison is calling me. Vince can have my dessert.

We'll see.

'Tis an interesting season, full of surprises.

Tuesday, November 24, 2009

Winter's flowers

On the Tribeca terrace planted a few months ago, the Edgeworthia papyrifera has developed flower buds that will stay all winter (I hope!) on the strangely succulent-like branches, and which will open in pre-spring, to perfume the garden.

Below, the Camellia 'Winter's Snowman' is in full bloom in three places on the terrace, even after some very serious winds burned the maples' leaves to a crisp.

The Fargesia rufa (clumping bamboo) below is still green and shows no signs of being nipped at the edges.



Field garlic stuffing

Field garlic, Allium vineale.

Well-versed foragers and gatherers of wild foods must yawn at it, but out of the whole expedition with Steve Brill, this was the most useful and worthwhile find for me. In fact, as I type, I am full of it. Field garlic, I mean: sweet little organic roast chicken with field garlic, breadcrumb, feta and lemon stuffing for dinner.

The stuffing:

First, having caught your field garlic, wash it it. (Top centre - I abandoned the mustard green roots and burdock root: way too tough).

1/2 cup finely chopped field garlic, mostly white but some green parts
1 shallot, finely chopped
1 cup breadcrumbs
Zest of about a quarter of a lemon
About a 1/4 cup of feta, crumbled

Saute shallots and field garlic in olive oil until translucent. Add breadcrumbs, stir to coat evenly with oil and onions, add zest, add feta. Grind some fresh black pepper over it and taste for salt (feta is salty).

Variation: Adding pancetta at the onion stage is also delicious.

Stuff into your - seasoned - chicken and roast as usual (which is at 425'F or just over an hour until it is brown. No basting necessary, but do add about a cup of water to the pan before it cooks, this will be your jus, later. A squeeze of lemon juice never hurt a chicken, either).

Consume, happily, with some Syrah, I think.

Monday, November 23, 2009

Wild mushrooms from Brooklyn

These were the immature stinkhorns as seen in a massive, mulched bed under trees near the deserted, disco-rocking skating rink in Prospect Park yesterday afternoon. Steve Brill said they were edible but dismissed them as tasting like styrofoam, but I pocketed one anyway.

Cut in half: the beautiful weirdness. It even LOOKS like styrofoam! Middle layer like jelly. Some online sources said this would make the thing stink while cooking.

I peeled the outside layer, leaving a charcoal, mottled pattern behind. Immature spores???

Below, with the oyster mushrooms*. As a child I was taught never to combine in a single bag/basket, edible and unidentified mushrooms, as poisonous fungi could contaminate the edibles? Um...anyone? But while I had my doubts about the flavour of the stinkhorn, I knew it was edible.

I sliced it into discs and sauteed with olive oil, field garlic and lemon. Pretty much ensuring that it would taste of olive oil, field garlic, and lemon.

Not bad. Bit rubbery. Next time I will peel off the brown layer, too: it was responsible for the slight toughness. No stink at all.

Pretty oysters. Same treatment, with field garlic greens.

Maybe a dash of soy would have been an improvement. Very good otherwise.

* Visit these 2010 blogposts for more oyster mushrooms adventures and here for cooking with field garlic.

And my edible weed article for Shelterpop for more about odd things you can eat.

The Brillophone



Here it is, folks. Our post foraging lunch concert, courtesy of Wildman Steve Brill.

Foraging with Steve Brill

Ready to forage, we gathered at 11.45am on the southern side of Grand Army Plaza, outside Prospect Park, and stood about for quite a while waiting for indemnity slips to be signed (not, as my father the lawyer says, worth the paper they're signed on) and to have a look at Steve Wildman Brill's books, laid out on the stone benches.

There are three; Edible and Medicinal Plants, published in 1994 by Harper Collins, with lovely illustrations by Evelyn Dean. Shoots and Green of Early Spring looks worthwhile too, is self-published and features Steve's own decent drawings,  plus a vegan cookbook.


Then we waited a bit more while the books were packed and put into a faraway car.

It was a pretty day, clear-edged and blue and full of fallen leaves underfoot.


Soon Steve was a-digging and our group of 33 clustered close.

Here he is holding up a burdock root, before setting us loose in the leaf litter. I shoveled away happily in the undergrowth, digging up clumps of earthworms and feeling triumphant when I got to the root...Cook it and it turns into artichoke, we were told.
It was a very well-mixed group, sporting every stripe and colour, which kind of surprised me. Young and mature, and beige and brown. He and she.


Above: Foraging Position No. 1.

Below: Foraging Position No. 2.

Field garlic, Allium vineale. Well-versed foragers and gatherers of wild foods must yawn at it, but of the whole expedition, this was the most useful and worthwhile find for me. In fact, as I type, I am full of it. Field garlic, I mean: sweet little organic roast chicken with field garlic, breadcrumb, feta and lemon stuffing for dinner. [For an April 2010 harvest of field garlic and how I prepared it, click here...]

Vince pointed out a lot more clumps to me during the day, which we dug up. Will post kitchen pictures later.

The lady below presented Steve with a massive artist's polypore, about 16" across, that she had broken off a tree trunk, and on which she had doodled a caricature of him. Then she handed out business cards. She does parties.

I had some issues. Climbing en masse over fences in the park to get to oyster mushrooms, and later persimmons, and the poor old fungus...

The Frenchie holding a Kentucky coffee tree pod - Gymnocladus dioicus. I roasted the beans this evening and heard them explode all over the oven. Heat too high. Did not think to cover. Next time.

In late November, native jewelweed. Impatiens capensis. Weird. Should have been killed by frost by now, but it must be protected by the woods.


My grubby paws holding the seed capsules.


Seed and exploded capsule. The fat seeds were nice enough.Nutty?

The oyster mushrooms were very beautiful. Steve hopped the fence to get at them, and distributed the bounty. We ate a tiny saucerful tonight as an amuse bouche.
A large patch of Aegopodium podagraria - what I know as bishop weed, and also called gout weed. It is highly invasive, as I learned a long time ago, so gather ye while ye may.

The young leaves tasted herbal in the carroty, parsley-y way. I brought several back, but after cleaning all the field garlic, did not find them worth the effort as far as root-scraping went. The leaves I would search out in the spring time, I think.


Rambling on...


Beautiful leaves of black cherry - Prunus serotina.


And who knew that lamb's quarters turned red in fall? Not I.

I spotted some puffballs growing in the woodchippy mulch under some tree. I can't wait to find young ones. As a child, I was convinced that the clouds of spores could kill if inhaled.

My old friend the stinkhorn - seen for the first time earlier this year and ID'd for me at the time by Paula, I think.

These are the babies, called eggs, said Steve, who also said they were edible but horrid. I collected one at once.

Shaking tiny persimmons from the persimmon tree - Diospyros virginiana. Over-ripe and soft, they split when hitting the ground, but were very sweet.

The persimmon was fenced in. Twice. There were very small saplings planted around it, protected by black pipe.


Everyone just barreled on over. Vince started to look down his long French nose.


A little farther on was another persimmon, unfenced with prettier fruit on the branches. 


Shake tree, get fruit. Better tasting, too.

A very enjoyable four hours, with some concerns: I'd like to know, from the person leading, what is native versus invasive or just plain introduced, in terms of renewable sources of food and what one ought to conserve, or plant or not plant in one's own garden. Steve did tell me that he doesn't garden. Latin names also would be helpful in some cases, to fill in my gaps, but that's why we have Google, and most people are not interested.

We ran out of time to see the sassafras trees, which I was rather looking forward to. Fewer songs on the 'brillophone'  may have speeded up the trip and seen more plants covered.

But certainly I'd like to do it again in another season, to learn more. Steve is a very good teacher and patient. I'm happy to train in these wonderful, big parks, and look forward to taking some more knowledge into proper woods and fields.

And a special thank you to The Frenchie for lending moral support (and carrying the picnic!). He is not a natural born forager, and manfully nibbled at gout weed and garlic before he started to think rather hard about dogs.